To do this, you have to cut a wire down under the glove box going into the large orange connector by the fuse box, and tap it into another one. Those two wires I have stripped have 12V across them The door system runs on 12V so I wouldn't expect the lower one to be greater than 0V , and the one I have labelled ground is stripped and wrapped behind that blue electrical tape in the photo with the other wires I have labelled in the previous images, one of which appears to connect to the chassis. We thank you for your visit to our website. I really find it hard to believe that it's a problem with the power lock actuators themselves just because I can't imagine all three of them would go bad at the same time. Door locks at rest will be grounded so chances are that both wires you're probing will have continuity to ground.
My initial thought from testing that circuit was that if the ground wire was brought high the car would unlock I had thought it was an isolated ground , and if the 12V wire was brought low the car would lock. I watched your video thanks again djdevon3 , but I'm still fairly confident that what I have labelled ground is actually a ground. That's a bit different than how the 1996 Body Electrical says the circuit should work. I figured I would post this as well, just in case it helps someone else apologies for resurrecting a dead thread. My assumption from this testing was that when both wires pulse high, the door unlocks; both pulse low and the door locks, and if they are different then nothing happens.
If these two wires are shorted the door unlocks. Unlike all of the other doors in the car the front driver door has an extra relay buried in it that controls the lock signal to the other 3 doors. The door locks are very simple creatures. Before I go opening up other compartments and stripping other wires though, I'd really like to work out what these trunk wires are for. I really find it hard to believe that it's a problem with the power lock actuators themselves just because I can't imagine all three of them would go bad at the same time. The electric door locks in my daughter's 2004 Mazda 3 are not working properly. You are an amazing person.
Oh I thought you were talking about keyless entry because only keyless uses pulse width modulation. Beat me to it however you've laid some amazing groundwork for myself and others. The problem really started all of a sudden without any work being done or any messing around!!! Thank You for visiting our site. As far as I can identify, there are 5 wires going to the locking components physical key slot, actuator, actual locking mechanism , and three of these seem to be ground wires. Yes, the car is just out of warranty. After looking at the wiring diagram in the body manual book and a bit more in-depth recon of the wiring situation in the trunk I think that understanding is definitely wrong, I'm just not sure why.
They said they had to reset the car this is what they told my daughter so I am naturally trying to get a little more detail. Jul 12, 2010 take it back to mazda and get it looked at. Maybe I read the page wrong? According to this it seems both of these wires should connect to the actuator. I doubt it would have changed that much between 96 and 97 as those were almost identical years for the 626. Honestly I would have expected it to be something simple like that so it does make more sense. The lock button on the fob won't lock the drivers door niether will the drivers door switch.
There is a sound when the switches are depressed which sounds like the doors are trying to open. Hmmmmm, I can't remember if there's a central module in the driver's door for the locks like there is for the windows I. Do not forget to share and love our reference to help further develop our website. To do this, you have to cut a wire down under the glove box going into the large orange connector by the fuse box, and tap it into another one. If you're having a power distribution problem I would check there.
The problem really started all of a sudden without any work being done or any messing around!!! On quad cab models only, a driver-door-only unlock or unlock-all-doors feature is also programmable. This is a programmable feature. I had a top notch trailer hitch instaler try three different brand harnesses. I havn't worked out why my circuit causes this I've been playing around with it for about 2 days and have no idea why ; but I figure that I seem to have at least identified two of the wires that do what I want them to, I just don't have the right understanding of how they are actually used. I'm assuming that the car is just out of warranty at this point, yes? I experienced the same symptoms when I was wiring my car to unlock all doors with a single push of the unlock button on the key fob. I experienced the same symptoms when I was wiring my car to unlock all doors with a single push of the unlock button on the key fob. I'm sure others would love to learn how to get keyless entry.
And you know, initially when I first found it, we liked it, we hope you are too. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic information. Sorry I was overthinking what you said. There are lots of the reason why you are researching for specifics about mazda 3 ac wiring diagram, and surely, you are searching for different suggestions for your needs. Are you sure it's 6v and not 6mv meaning a ground? I know that trying to test a circuit like that can be a little frustrating especially if it's not working correctly. I've been looking through it, and the only part I can see on trunk wiring is in the keyless entry section which my car doesn't have.